Saturday, January 31, 2015
Design 2642 Zingaro
Here are a couple of nice shots of Zingaro taken during a very foggy Newport Bucket a couple of years back. Images by Billy Black.
More About Saraband Design 1519
A blog reader asked us about the sail area on design #1519, Saraband, a design we posted well over a year ago. It dawned on us that we never posted the sail plan, so here it is. Saraband is a very special double-ender.
While were at it, here are a few magazine articles about the boat. Please double click for zoom.
LOA 35-0"
LWL 29-0"
Beam 8-6"
Draft 5-3"
Displacement 14,350 lbs
Ballast 5,800 lbs (outside) 200 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 572 sq ft
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Design 2299 1 2 Tonner
This little half-tonner would be the third S&S design for this client. His first was design #1767, a 40 production yacht (S&S40) built by a brand new boatyard named Teksoglass of Finland in 1964, followed by design #1973, a Swan 43 delivered in 1968.
The client was Åke Lindqvist, at the time Chief Surveyor to Lloyd’s Register in Finland. He had an active interest in offshore racing, had established contacts with S&S, and the knowledge for performing scantling calculations for the yachts. In the days of his first S&S design (1964), fiberglass was then a fairly new and unknown material for boat building, and it is likely that Lloyd’s scantling rules at the time were partly built on Åke’s contributions.
We have no record of where this boat was built.
Here is the general arrangement plan.
LOA 31-6"
LWL 22-5"
Beam 11-0"
Draft 5-6"
Displacement 5,685 lbs
Sail Area 383 sq ft
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Friday, January 30, 2015
Design 1203 Windward II
This handsome yawl was built by Joel Johnson of Bridgeport, Connecticut and launched in 1955. She is constructed of steam bent oak framing, oak backbone and mahogany planking. Fasteners are of Everdur.
Here are the plans.
Heres an article from Yachting magazine. Please double click for zoom.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 42-9"
LWL 29-6"
Beam 11-9"
Draft 4-4"
Displacement 22,400 lbs
Ballast 6,700 lbs (outside) 300 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 847 sq ft
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Sun Bird V and Miyakadori Design 2223 and 2223 C1
Just this past Saturday I posted an article about Galvana, design 2223. Actually Galvana was the third of the series. Heres an image of the first to be built to this design, Sun Bird V, coming out of the shed. Two boats were built for Japanese Admirals Cup teams by the Kato Boat Company of Yokosuka City, Japan and launched in 1974 and 75 respectively.
Heres the other sister, Miyakadori, design #2223-C1.
LOA 54-2"
LWL 39-4"
Beam 14-0"
Draft 8-2"
Displacement 36,112 lbs
Ballast 17,500 lbs
Sail Area 1,196 sq ft
Packing for the other side of the world
Though I thought we did pretty well packing for Fiona in the Caribbean, Ive figured out more things that can be left behind.
The biggest item, this time, are foul weather gear and sleeping bags, since Agnes will be supplying them. Phew.
Next biggest to be cut is my laptop. Im decidedly not retired, and have clients who depend on me keeping their systems going, even if I happen to be on a boat in France. This has always meant lugging clunky, expensive, not-waterproof laptop along. I hate it.
This time, all Im bringing is my iPad. Ive figured out how to do all my support work on this simple, multi-purpose device, which also has much better battery life than my laptop. Well also be blogging from it. As a luxury, Im also packing my Apple keyboard, but Id be surprised if that isnt cut next time.
Like Helena, Im also bringing more clothes this time, mainly because well be in France, not on some beach. I have a feeling were just being paranoid, and we probably could have left home half our clothes. But better safe than sorry.
For sailing, Im bringing sea boots, two good hats, some warm clothes that can go under foulies, my new riggers knife, sailing gloves, and my head lamp. Those are what I now regard as the essentials.
Anyway, weve managed to pack everything into fairly small, water proof duffle bags. About 30-inches long by 18-inches in diameter. By far the best weve done so far.
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| Ready to go. |
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When getting ready for Fiona--due south in warm weather--mostly I was deciding which bikini to pack. I took all of them, plus a couple of shorts, some tank tops, and a one warm cardigan.
Agnes is a different story. Ah, the unknown and unpredictable weather of the English channel. Yes, it is summer, and John and I have been watching the weather carefully. Highs in the 70s and lows in the 50s, but it could be nice and warm in the 80s and also cold and rainy in the 40s. Summer?
John, as always planning ahead, jolted down a list of about 100 basic items we shouldnt leave the house without. He started packing about a week ago.
Today, while watching a hopeful Brazil against the mighty Netherlands in the World Cup semifinals game, I decided to do my packing. Bikinis, just in case (dont leave home without it). After the main item, toiletries --- sun block, mosquito repellent (do they even have mosquitos in France?), creams, etc, etc. Done.
Foul weather gear, bedding, all meals on board, and sailing instructions are included in this trip. Good.
The next big dilemma comes from the fact that we are going to spend 50% of our time on the boat and the other 50% on shore in France. France!! Where the women are beautifully dressed, the men are elegant, and the restaurants tres chic, Oh-la-la. One cannot just go ashore wearing sneakers and a T-shirt and some shorts. Oh no, one must look cool and just out of a 5 star hotel. So all the clothes that are not wrinkle-free are out. That means most of my good dress-up clothes will be left hanging. I packed some tank tops, a polyester dress, jeans pants and jean skirts, and a cashmere cardigan. That will have to do.
What to wear on the boat? Well, it might rain, it might be cold, it might be windy. The other half of my small waterproof duffle bag will be filled with long sleeve T-shirts, gym pants and shorts, warm socks and tights. Maybe a pair of cosy sweat pants for lounging in the cabin, while enjoying a glass of Pinot Grigio.
And then, the worst: shoes. For all the people who know me, it is clear that I prefer Havaianas with socks over all other types of footwear. By the way, for you who are keeping up with trendy shoe fashion, Havaianas is a brand of flip-flop sandals created in Brasil in 1962. I have been wearing them since then. Of course I will be wearing them most of the time (you should try it --- cozy and comfortable), but again we are landing in France, and that is probably the only country in the world I would feel slightly conscious about my flip-flops. The Converses are packed, and I will wear my clunky wedges on the plane. The sea boots will have to stay home.
Packed, house cleaned (love to return to a clean house), trash out.
Off to England we go. Talk to you soon.
Next Episode: To Penzance
Thursday, January 29, 2015
Design 2057 Prospect of Whitby III
This was the third Prospect of Whitby built for Arthur Slater. This I.O.R. boat was designed and built for the 1971 Admirals Cup. She was built of aluminum by the Huisman Shipyard of Holland and then shipped to W. A. Souter & Son in Cowes, England for completion and fit out.
Here are the plans.
LOA 45-2"
LWL 33-4"
Beam 13-0"
Draft 7-1"
Displacement 25,088 lbs
Ballast 12,000 lbs
Sail Area 818 sq ft
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An update of sorts
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While I do love the idle time, I still like to keep buys albeit at my own pace, so I have been getting some smaller projects off the list. The decks took a beating from welding the super structure on along with the myriad of other work I had to do, so I was glad once I got more paint on them. I gave the decks a good scrubbing using scotch bright pads and warm water, then hosed them down. A day later, after they were sufficiently dry, I rolled on the same acrylic urethane I used for all my exterior paint. The paint is pricey at $175.00 per gallon, but worth every penny in my book as its proven to be tough as touted. The only problem is its also about as slippery as a paint can be once it gets wet. Next spring, were going to put down a non skid deck paint of a slightly darker color. Along with getting the decks final painted, I also was able to paint the weld zones where the super structure welded to the hull. The wheel house trim is 99% complete with me having fabricated the faux beam that runs down the center line of the wheel house and also is the chase for getting wires to the mast. I say 99% complete because I still have to build a small cabinet above the companion way.
The blue sea distribution panel is 100% operational, with all the functioning breakers labeled and all the blank spots covered with blue sea blank covers. I should say that this panel is one of my most favorite pieces of equipment on board, and has been nothing but great to work on. The way the panel is back lit along with the back lit labels, its reassuring to glance at it during the night and be able to quickly see the state of things.
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I finally finished wiring the automatic charging relay a few weeks ago, and while were only taking short day trips, Im totally happy with how its working. The engine room ventilation fan pulls about 10 amps, and before I had the house bank connected to the alternator via the ACR, I always kept my eye on the house bank anemometer. The house bank is big enough where that 10 amp ventilator isnt going to kill it in a day, but it did give me something to think about. Now that the ACR is wired and working, its nice to glance down at the house bank meter and see amps going in vs being drawn out.
The composting toilet in the lower head has been disappointing, while the Raritan fresh water flush in the salon day head has been stellar. We have to many bodies on board for a composter to effectively, so next spring its going to get replaced with another Raritan.
The PYI drip-less seal has been a good piece of gear as our bilges are dusty. Ive never owned a boat or been on a boat that has as dry of bilges as we have. Ive heard about dry bilge boats but Ive never really seen one until our steel boat. Its big time nice and easy to have dust in ones bilge vs nasty, funky, water.
I wish I had given more attention to cabin ventilation. Because the air conditioner is on board, but not hooked up, weve had to rely upon using fans to get fresh air in to the below deck cabins. I have one axial fan pulling air into our cabin, but will have to add another over the winter. It would be for sure nice to be able to adequately ventilate our cabin passively, but the way the boat is designed makes it difficult. The 300 cfm axial fan does a good job, but another will be needed. We have two marine air conditioners on board, but theyre not operational yet, so total comfort will wait another season.
My only real complaints about the boat are the lack of headroom going from the salon to the wheel house. Ducking through this area is second nature to us, but I do have to warn friends on board to watch their head. My other complaint is the steepness of the steps leading down to the below deck cabins. The headroom in the boat is great, and getting down to point B from point A is the whole rise over run thing thats just another compromise on a boat.
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A few things we added that were not on the original design was the day head in the salon which has turned out to be a great amenity, and one I would ask any one building this model to consider. Another add I did on my own was making the aft deck larger by moving the aft bulkhead forward one station ( 30"). Having an aft deck large enough for a grill, four chairs and a small table make the boat that much bigger. The salon is still very large and easily accommodates our crew, so this move has proven to be a success.
Our harbor closes down in three weeks, and Ive already scheduled to be hauled out the first Monday in November. The boat build will pick up steam again once shes on the hard and Winter finds us. Projects for the winter are to get the hydraulic system up and running. Fabricate the mast and handrails for above. Complete the marine air installations. Cabinets for the engine room. Shelves for the lazarette. Add ballast forward. Raise the generator exhaust outlet pipe along with the aft water line paint. Figure out what the noise is coming from the stern tube bearing ( Vesconite ).
Like I was saying a few short months ago, I need another year to finish her up, and realistically a bit longer. Were already planning a two week cruise for next summer, wanting to take her down to Kentucky lake, so I guess Ill be rushing around again next spring trying to get all the things I did not get competed over the winter so shell be ready for a May launch. Deja vu all over again.
Cheers
Building the Atkin Dinghy Vintage
The goal is to build the William Atkin designed Vintage in time for the "I Built It Myself" show at the Wooden Boat Show in Mystic, CT.
Why Vintage? Several reasons.
First, I think its time I tackled a round-bottom boat. Again, I think this is a project that is way above my current skill level, but Im a real believer in the adage that people can do more than they think they can. Just because I doubt my ability to build such a complicated boat, is no reason to not do it.
Sounds weird, right? Ah well.
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| William Atkin Vintage 10 round-bottom lapstrake |
Third, I really like the Atkin designs and Pat Atkin is a great help, and I happen to live in the town that William Atkin got his start in, back in 1906. So for me, it makes sense to stick with the Atkins.
Fourth, Id like to see if I can find ways to make these very traditional designs more accessible to rank-amateur builders like me. It seems to me that a lot of people are building simpler boats because they think something as complicated as Vintage is too hard for them. If I can find ways to simplify the build, that might make it easier for others to build these beautiful boats.
Hey, if a duffer like me can build it, anyone can!
But the winter is slipping away fast! Helena convinced me to set up a simple project plan to keep me on track. Good thing she did, because it helped me get in a more business-like frame of mind. This should help keep me focused. I tend to get distracted by interesting side issues like cutting my own lumber from county forest land. Interesting, but not compatible with my schedule!
I should be able to make the show deadline, but must get cracking, because theres a lot to do!
The first step was to set up a decent work space. Its the same basement space I used to build Cabin Boy, but then it was a bit of a cluttered mess. I decided to start fresh with a completely empty room, except for some shelves and benches.
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| Building space, after passing cat inspection photo jalmberg |
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| Other end, with Thinking Chair ready to go photo jalmberg |
For Cabin Boy, I used 1/4" plywood. I found this to be too thin to hold the nails needed for bending battens for curves, so decided to go with 3/4" plywood. I found a couple good quality sheets at HD for $25 each. A steal.
Since I needed a 13 board, I needed to cut one of the sheets. This was a lot harder than I thought it would be. I thought I could use my jigsaw by clamping a kind of fence to the board, but that idea failed miserably! Each time I cut (and I tried several times) the line would veer off to the left. Why???
I thought maybe the clamped jig was moving, but obviously it wasnt.
Finally I figured out that the blade was bending to the left. Why always to the left, I don’t know, but it did.
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| The wrong tool for the job photo jalmberg |
Well, no harm done.
The jigsaw was my only power saw, so it was time to break out the hand saws. I tried several different approaches, but what finally worked was cutting the sheet vertically with a Japanese pull saw. This made a clean, accurate, 90 degree cut with very little effort.
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| The all-purpose Japanese pull saw photo jalmberg |
So the pull saw saved me again, but my next job is to rip a couple 13 battens from 3/4" clear pine. Its clear I need a better tool for this job.
>>> Next Episode: Lofting Board
Ill be back
Tuesday, January 27, 2015
Intro post
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John Brooks, the designer and builder of the Somes Sound 12 1/2, in Maine |
The first-up idea of literally building a 17th Century longboat was discarded when I found that the only plans, at the National Maritime Museum in the UK, were no longer available online.
So, some research later I came across the Couta Boat from Melbourne: these are fine sailing fishing boats of the late 19th century, gaff-rigged and fast, now raced in an active one-design class. But again, despite repeated emails to the Couta Boat Association, I couldnt get any plans.
That led me, on the byways and highways of the intertube, to the plans for a Somes Sound 12 1/2 designed by John Brooks, Brooks Boats Design, Brookline Maine. It helped that in my research Id ordered a dozen or so books from Amazon on building wooden boats and found John and Ruths by far the best: their excellent "How to build a glued lapstrake wooden boat".
So here I am now, in the process -- or just started really.
Im going to keep a record here, photos and thoughts. And a record of costs, if I remember.
UPDATE: Forgot to post a piccie of what shes supposed to look like when finished....
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| A pretty little picnic boat |
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| From Wooden Boat, Nov-Dec 2010 |
Cheers for now.
Peter in Hong Kong
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And get not through fiber before should. Fiberglassing antiophthalmic factor Is it OK to put fiberglass over woodwind or not at that place are two dimensions to this The first is whether or not to glass over wood in new Sheathing a Wooden. It was a It leaked and rotted. Im contemplating the purchase rehab of a definitive 60s wooden motoryacht fiberglassing a wooden boat. Im not interested in a historic restoration preservation merely a How to fiberglass a gravy holder victimization epoxy glue resin and glass If in doubt tryout the material victimization scrap woods. Why on earth w
Changes in Website
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| My website may "go out" for a little while during my transition. I wont leave you high and dry like this boat in Great Bay, NH. This is not one of my kit boats! |
Homemade Jet Boat
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View Put together 300 Tiger Shark spurt ski centrifugal 25 and more than videos uploaded by micarone astatine StreetFire homemade jet boat. You will pappa I make found amp variety of printable pop up cards from around the internet for you to print and use to wee a bulge upward card with that special surprise hiding around of these are gratis and for some. Hey my friends call me Crazy Capizzi. I MA wondering about the feasability of buildng group A low power 20hp jet drive unit victimisation off the shelf components.
Monday, January 26, 2015
Design 2386 Ocean Cruising 48
This design was commissioned by Hank Hinckley in 1979 for what appears to be a new yacht building company in Bar Harbor, Maine called Ocean Cruising Yachts. I do not believe the company got off the ground or beyond this stage of promotion. Her Hinckley roots are evident.
Heres the rest of the brochure. Please double click for zoom.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 47-7"
LWL 36-0"
Beam 13-9"
Draft 4-10" (centerboard up) 9-6" (centerboard down)
Displacement 29,375 lbs
Ballast 11,494 lbs
Sail Area 1,062 sq ft
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Home Made Wood Boat
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Drawings For Model Boats
The majority of plans are intended as working R C models and subjects. Mould sauceboat PLANS & MANUAL BASED ON THE I throw often had requests from pose boat makers who have visited the Selway Fisher site for plans. Group A model wooden gravy holder sauceboat builders resouce with relinquish plans and blueprints to make model boats. An experienced builder can use these plans to construct a scratchbuilt posture of the ship equally the majority of plans include the flesh profiles indium gain to the hull. Wiring Diagrams for Brushless Motor and bucket along Controllers. Xl items
Forty items Plans for model boat and ships from Marine Modelling external Traplets drawings for model boats. If you are happy with the plans you download please make a pocket-size donation to help keep this service. Fifty items drawings for model boats. Barren framework boat plans from Clydebank model boat club. Amp crop of graduated table and semi scale plans from the publishers of framework Boats Magazine. After many requests for plans for good example boats based on Selway Fisher Designs particularly motor and steam launches I.
Sunday, January 25, 2015
Hull finish paint
When I had completed the body work on the hull, and sprayed the last coat of primer, I had thought I had the sanding to a good enough quality to paint. Thats kind of a loaded response, as the primer was probably smooth enough to paint, I just wanted it a bit smoother. The problem I was fearing was that not having the primer perfectly flat would cause the top coat to have some blemish. Without more sanding, the top coat would still be shiny and pretty, but the blemish I was worried about would make it a problem to revive the finish years down the road with polishing and wax. The primer needed to be flatter. So given the lessons learned on the transom and wanting a more user friendly finish, I decided to re sand the hull.
Sanding the hull ( Im only talking about the port side today) to 320 grit was not to bad of a job. Its kind of hard to describe what Im talking about, but once you start to sand with 320, minute high spots in the primer start to appear. More sanding flattens the primer, and the high spots disappear. The primer starts to get a shine to it, and it is almost as if it is being burnished by the finer grit sand paper. 320 seems fine enough for a boat paint job, but Im sure body shops working on cars would take primer to at least 400 and more likely 600. There are for sure better ways to spend ones time than sanding primer so I approached in my not getting in a hurry way of doing things. Spending an hour before leaving for work in the morning and a hour after work in the evening, helped me keep the patience needed for this type of work.
Wanting to break up visual size of the hull, I decided to paint the rub rails another color. The lower rub rail extends around the back of the boat and becomes the swim platform. I dont know how many of you have painted the color red in your house, but I can tell you that I now know that red industrial paint has the same problems as red house paint. You have to prime anything you intend to use red paint on. I had already painted the swim platform white, and the swim platform part of the rub rail green. I re sanded the swim platform rub rail, taped it off and began spraying red over the green. The green makes the red a few shades darker than the other ( primed) rub rail. The few spots on the swim platform rub rail where I sanded through the green in to the white primer, the red does not cover the white. This part of the rub rail is going to have to be sanded, primed, and re painted. Truthfully, it doesnt look that bad, but it is noticeable enough that I want to re do it.
Taping off the hull took also took quite a bit more time than I had figured. I probably have five or six hours invested in taping. Once I had an area taped, I wiped it down with a tack cloth to remove the dust. I started taping on Thursday night, and finished it Friday after work so I would be ready to spray Saturday morning.
When I blasted and painted the barrier coat on the hull bottom, I brought the barrier coat six inches above the water line. I brought the green two inches down past the barrier coat, so when the boat is in the water, about four inches of the bottom paint will be seen. The white barrier coat will be covered with red anti foul paint.
Getting three coats of paint on her requires more of the elusive patience, and keeping track of where one is in regard to where one just sprayed. The first coat to hit the metal covers the primer, but not too heavy. The second coat goes on while the paint is starting to get tacky which allows the second coat to cover while not sag. If the spray gun volume and fan width is tuned in right, the second coat is probably good enough to call the area finished. The third coat gets risky, because you now have some thickness developed and the paint wants to start sagging. The second coat needs to be well on its way to being tacky, or you could develop a sag on the third coat. You have to wait for the paint to tack up to accept more material, but you cant wait too long or it will to dry and you get dry spots where you start and stop the spray pattern. Im using up to 10% by volume of reducer in the paint, so it tends to dry quicker. I have one spot below the bulwark at the wheel house, where I had a drying issue on the third coat and Ill have to polish it to blend it back together. This is where sanding the primer perfectly flat pays off as it makes polishing much easier.
I still have to finish paint the starboard side, so Im starting prep work on it this week. Given how busy Im getting with work, I doubt Ill have it completed by next weekend, so Im giving myself another week to call the paint work a wrap. Im big time happy to see so much shine when I walk in to the barn but Im more happy to have reached this milestone.
Cheers